Chosen Solution
I am looking into the heatgun, blocking the vents(wow, that will do MORE damage then good), reballing, replacing the board if I get the right donor I have asked about the best way to implement data removal separately and actually made it understandable How I deal with these laptops is very simple, clean the heatsink, get Artic Silver 5, replace the thermal pads on these ticking death clocks to keep them around longer(I get it, I CHOOSE to take these) I will do this on ANY NVIDIA plagued laptop I need to fix to keep them from dying again as quick(I have worked on a friend’s with a reflow, it lasted 2 years before it died, better then a year and then it died before)
dv6/9 series are doomed dont try to fix it at home you need 220-230C to smelt the tin but you kill the chip with 250C (celcius) and it will brake again if not done properly reballing with new tin would work for half a year but the chip goes too hot by default so why bother?
Give it to a computer shop and tell them to remove the gup chip set and use leaded solider. This issue occurs because HP used non leaded so it has a low melting point than leaded. I did the same thing and mines working fine its almost a year now. I also cut a hole in the bottom cover and added a extra PS3 fan to all the device to breath more heavily.. No problem with it now works like a charm no over heating issues . Reball wit leaded solder!
Is it possible to remove the discret GPU and use the onboard chip ???? remove physically and from BIOS or something? ( Of course…only after reflowing and being able to power on once again..)
